January 4, 2009
I feel as though the days are one big blur, having no concept of time or days that have passed. Ive been here for one week and Ive managed to see so much in that amount of time, that I havent had time to continue with my blog. The headings are in Arabic because Im using the wireless in Suzette’s home. To catch up, Im posting some videos of the timeline of the places Ive been.
New Year’s Eve was a great day, although chaotic and interesting for sure. Eslam, my close friend travelling with me and showing me around, lives in Heliopolis, a suburb of Cairo. He took me to a very nice Lebanese/ Egyptian dinner on the Nile for New Year’s Eve. Hummous, Fattah, Kafta, Chicken Tiwook, and kebab was what we had for dinner. It was an incredible view, with small boats cruising the Nile with traditional Egyptian dancing. We left the area and headed for a coffee shop but walked a bit down a place with many shops and people. I cant quite get over people constantly staring at me, curious about me, but also interested to know why an Egyptian is with an American woman. At times I am so uncomfortable I want to hide my face, but it doesn’t change the comments and curiousity. I am just thankful for having Eslam with me to take me everywhere as I honestly cant see myself doing this alone. I would be stopped every second. We eventually ended up in front of aclub called “Solidaire” where live Arabian music was playing and about 30 men were standing out front waiting to get in. Suzette had warned me that most clubs depending on class, would be full of many men and few women. We listened and watched. A fight broke out and some man was standing there with his face bleeding. Traffic in the city was just crazy. As the new year came around, I was walking briskly through a maze of so many people, young and old, selling their goods on the sidewalks, socializing and acting crazy. The air was pretty toxic, no fireworks to be seen. I had a good time though.
The following day I was invited to Heliopolis, where Eslam lives to his home to have Egyptian dinner. I had no idea what I was about to experience, but it definitely made an impression. I am grateful that he allowed me into his world. We drove a ways through Cairo to an area that was like a big city within a smaller suburb. It is almost difficult to explain. It was mostly dirt roads and high rise buildings full of flats and ghetto looking homes/areas. There were people everywhere, walking, bicycling, donkeys pulling carts and people carrying goods to wherever. I was definitely not in my element and stuck out pretty badly. Thankfully, our taxi driver took us directly through town and I was able to capture the area through the window. Little 2 and 3 year old children were running around, with no shoes on, not watched by their parents. It was curious to me. So much of it reminded me of Ukraine as far as smells, appearance, and just the basic ideas of survival and protecting what you have. I was gifted with gifts from Eslam’s family, and ate delicious Egyptian food. It became quite clear to me the contrast of living. How so much of what I have, I do not need, and the people in this area would cherish, if even taking it out of the package. I was laughing because I thought of my stepfather Richard, who saves Christmas wrapping paper at home, and we’ve always given him a hard time for it. Whereas here, I had wrapped some presents, and everyone saved the paper here. Totally different perspective. I tried to keep my judgments and remain humble, although it was difficult. Seeing how water comes on infrequently, the flats very dirty, and many people inhabiting such a small space. What I noticed the most is the noise never stops. It is loud all the time. As we were leaving his area, Eslam asked me if I would cover to feel more comfortable because everyone would definitely be looking at me. I felt awkward,not knowing how to even wear a head scarf. Not only that, but I realized how clinched and up tight I felt, resistant to the idea completely, because I felt it somehow deprived me of full expression. Some women here would tell you completely the opposite as to why they choose to cover. It is their choice here. But Eslam didn’t want to draw extra attention to me….he was wrong. It actually drew much more attention to me because people wondered who this fair skinned blonde was under this scarf.;) I was completely overwhelmed, him grabbing my hand and pulling me through the streets, with absolute chaos going on around me. I was just submersed in this culture, in a very direct way. People don’t just glance and look away. They literally, obviously, stare you down. I was the only white foreigner in the place.My trust lay in Eslam’s hands as he got the taxi and all. Once I reached Zemalek, the area where I am staying, the anxiety hadnt quite subsided, but I just needed to process what had just happened.
I feel as though the days are one big blur, having no concept of time or days that have passed. Ive been here for one week and Ive managed to see so much in that amount of time, that I havent had time to continue with my blog. The headings are in Arabic because Im using the wireless in Suzette’s home. To catch up, Im posting some videos of the timeline of the places Ive been.
New Year’s Eve was a great day, although chaotic and interesting for sure. Eslam, my close friend travelling with me and showing me around, lives in Heliopolis, a suburb of Cairo. He took me to a very nice Lebanese/ Egyptian dinner on the Nile for New Year’s Eve. Hummous, Fattah, Kafta, Chicken Tiwook, and kebab was what we had for dinner. It was an incredible view, with small boats cruising the Nile with traditional Egyptian dancing. We left the area and headed for a coffee shop but walked a bit down a place with many shops and people. I cant quite get over people constantly staring at me, curious about me, but also interested to know why an Egyptian is with an American woman. At times I am so uncomfortable I want to hide my face, but it doesn’t change the comments and curiousity. I am just thankful for having Eslam with me to take me everywhere as I honestly cant see myself doing this alone. I would be stopped every second. We eventually ended up in front of aclub called “Solidaire” where live Arabian music was playing and about 30 men were standing out front waiting to get in. Suzette had warned me that most clubs depending on class, would be full of many men and few women. We listened and watched. A fight broke out and some man was standing there with his face bleeding. Traffic in the city was just crazy. As the new year came around, I was walking briskly through a maze of so many people, young and old, selling their goods on the sidewalks, socializing and acting crazy. The air was pretty toxic, no fireworks to be seen. I had a good time though.
The following day I was invited to Heliopolis, where Eslam lives to his home to have Egyptian dinner. I had no idea what I was about to experience, but it definitely made an impression. I am grateful that he allowed me into his world. We drove a ways through Cairo to an area that was like a big city within a smaller suburb. It is almost difficult to explain. It was mostly dirt roads and high rise buildings full of flats and ghetto looking homes/areas. There were people everywhere, walking, bicycling, donkeys pulling carts and people carrying goods to wherever. I was definitely not in my element and stuck out pretty badly. Thankfully, our taxi driver took us directly through town and I was able to capture the area through the window. Little 2 and 3 year old children were running around, with no shoes on, not watched by their parents. It was curious to me. So much of it reminded me of Ukraine as far as smells, appearance, and just the basic ideas of survival and protecting what you have. I was gifted with gifts from Eslam’s family, and ate delicious Egyptian food. It became quite clear to me the contrast of living. How so much of what I have, I do not need, and the people in this area would cherish, if even taking it out of the package. I was laughing because I thought of my stepfather Richard, who saves Christmas wrapping paper at home, and we’ve always given him a hard time for it. Whereas here, I had wrapped some presents, and everyone saved the paper here. Totally different perspective. I tried to keep my judgments and remain humble, although it was difficult. Seeing how water comes on infrequently, the flats very dirty, and many people inhabiting such a small space. What I noticed the most is the noise never stops. It is loud all the time. As we were leaving his area, Eslam asked me if I would cover to feel more comfortable because everyone would definitely be looking at me. I felt awkward,not knowing how to even wear a head scarf. Not only that, but I realized how clinched and up tight I felt, resistant to the idea completely, because I felt it somehow deprived me of full expression. Some women here would tell you completely the opposite as to why they choose to cover. It is their choice here. But Eslam didn’t want to draw extra attention to me….he was wrong. It actually drew much more attention to me because people wondered who this fair skinned blonde was under this scarf.;) I was completely overwhelmed, him grabbing my hand and pulling me through the streets, with absolute chaos going on around me. I was just submersed in this culture, in a very direct way. People don’t just glance and look away. They literally, obviously, stare you down. I was the only white foreigner in the place.My trust lay in Eslam’s hands as he got the taxi and all. Once I reached Zemalek, the area where I am staying, the anxiety hadnt quite subsided, but I just needed to process what had just happened.
hello habibi ) savvi
ReplyDeletenice pictures!